The Four Counties Ring
The Four Counties Ring,(it cruises through the Four Counties of Cheshire, Shropshire, Derbyshire and Staffordshire) has 94 locks and you cruise 110 miles. All of it superb! There is rural scenery, industrial heritage, engineering feats, and warm cozy village pubs. Now I have to admit right now that we have not done the the Four Counties Ring in one cruise. But we have covered the entire ring over various trips. We start the Four Countes ring cruise at Middlewich, an old salt town, with the very welcoming Kings Lock Inn. Good moorings here between the lock, and bridge 166.And, by Big Lock, is the Big Lock Inn, serving a fine pint of Theakston XB, and Directors. There is a canal side garden, and it is boater and family friendly. We quite liked Middlewich, good moorings, a useful selection of shops, two banks, Somerfield and a chandlery by the boatyard.There is a water point, at the junction, and sani station at the Boatyard. Wheelock also provides good moorings, a newsagent, and one of our favorite pubs on the trip, the Cheshire Cheese, where our kids gave the juke box a fine work out. A news agency and post office make Wheelockone of the most pleasant spots to stop and re-stock on the Four Counties Ring. If you have time, visit the Commercial Hotel, a classic friendly pub with cozy rooms and Thwaites Bitter. From Wheelock onwards, the locks start to get serious, with 26 of them over the next 7 miles before to Kidsgrove and the Harecastle Tunnel.
But we loved it, and what a great stretch of canal it is!Most of the locks along here are doubled, an improvement made in the 1830’s by Thomas Telford to speed up traffic. The locks are spread out, so they are too far for a flight, and too close to take a breather! The remains of industry, and the potteries, are evident everywhere along this stretch. Rhode Heath has two pubs, the Broughton arms, (bridge 139) and the Royal Oak, 5 minutes walk over bridge 142. One of the charachteristicsof the Four Counties Ring is its changing, contrasting scenery.And its now a rural cruise, with lovely scenery, right down to Lawton Three locks, which is closely followed by Church Locks. Try the Broughton Arms, at Rhode Heath, and give yourself a well earned break! Marston’s Pedigree is very agreeable.At Red Bull, the Macclesfield canal passes over the top, the precursor to today’s motorway junction, but a lot more attractive. And so we come to Kidsgrove, and the Harecastle Tunnel. And here the Macclesfield leaves the Trent and Mersey, heading south, to eventually swing north back at Red Bull. The canal water has a real orange tinge, and the closer you get to Harecastle Tunnel, the more orange it gets.By the tunnel, it is a rich maroon colour. Harecastle Tunnel is 2,962 feet long. Passage through is controlled by BW staff. It is a chilly and spooky experience, but, being one way working, one does not have to worry about oncoming boats. The tunnel used today is the second one opened at Harecastle. The first was opened in 1777. The current one was opened in 1827, (completed in three years, as opposed to the original one taking eleven years!)to ease congestion caused by the huge increase in traffic. In 1914 the original tunnel was abandoned due to bad subsidence and declining traffic. After the 40 minute or so journey through the tunnel, it is with some relief to cruise into daylight and moor at Longport. Here we visited the Duke of Bridgewater, but have been told recently it is no longer operating as a pub. There is a water point just by the exit to the Caldon Canal.Stoke is a canal friendly town, with plenty of moorings. Although most of the pottery trade has gone, you can still see remnants around Stoke, with bottle kilns, warehouses and old factories reminding us of what used to be. Water and sanitary disposal is available by Etruria Junction.From Stoke, it is a pleasant cruise through Hem Heath where a pleasant little gift shop operates. There are good moorings by bridge 103 to wander into Barlaston, where the Plume of Feathers is a welcome sight The Wedgewood Visitor Centre can also be reached from bridge 104.Try and pause a while at Stone. It is a delightful, bustling town, once the headquarters of the Trent and Mersey Canal Company.Another boater friendly town, moorings are plentiful, and the town centre only a few minutes away. The Star Inn, by bridge 93, is one of the oldest pubs on the system, and serves a fine Banks, and Pedigree, and serves bar meals. Don’t miss it. The Rising Sun, a family friendly pub is located next to Limekiln Lock, selling Bass beers. A lovely canal side garden with swings here as well. In the town, Safeway and Somerfield both have supermarkets, and there are plenty of other shops to restock the fridge.There is a market on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.We found mooring before lock 27 (just before bridge 93) ideal, handy to the Star and the town. Continuing on through the lovely Trent Valley, the canal accompanied by the rail and road heads towards Great Haywood. It is well worth a stop at Sandon, a pretty village a brief stroll from bridge 83. There you can relax at the Dog and Doublet with its timeless atmosphere and Bass beers.There is also a handy Post Office and store here. 
As the canal turns towards Weston, the railway thunders past, emphasizing the pleasure of the quiet 3 mph canal life. Just try sitting on the village green near the marvelous Woolpack at Weston. Selling Marston’s Ales, this pub has been highly recommended by Pearson’s and other guides, and rightly so. Also has post office and store in the village. Great Haywood is one of our favorite canal villages.With its beautiful towpath bridge, it is as lovely a spot as you will find on the system. There are ample moorings here, especially pleasing after bridge 73 with an outlook over Shugborough HallWe first visited Great Heywood in 1985. We were returning our Anglo Welsh boat after our very first cruise. It was cold, and wet, so didn’t see a lot of the town.We had to wait until 2005, to get back. But, get back we did, with our share-owned boat, and we stayed three days.Anglo Welsh has its narrow boat hire fleet here, where there is a water point and rubbish disposal. A delightful farm shop is alongside the junction. It’s fun just to wander around and marvel at the variety of goods on offer there.Great Haywood is great place for walks. Cannock Chase, and Shugborough Hall and Museum both offer interesting and easily accessible areas for walking.On the way to either, you are likely to come across Essex Bridge, probably the finest example of a packhorse bridge in the country. It’s just near lock 73.Cross the canal bridge at lock 73 and you are in Great Haywood.There is Spa, Post Office, laundromat and two excellent pubs, the Clifford Arms, and the Fox and Hounds.The Fox is through the town a bit, but serves a fine pint of Old Speckled Hen in a friendly relaxed bar.The Clifford Arms, a pub we have visited a few times, has a nice outside eating area, and serves Tetley’s. Also a friendly welcome. Heading out of Great Heywood is a surprise, as Tixall Wide is more like a lake, than a canal. Depending on who you listen to, this was built to improve the view from Tixall Hall, or it is a natural lake there before the canal was built. Whatever the real story is, it’s a unique bit of canal, with an array of waterfowl and birdlife ever present. The gate house to Tixall Hall is still visible. Cruising through the Penk Valley, the towns of Baswich and Wildwood slip by, their front gardens sliding right to the canal. Acton Trussell has a solitary building on the towpath side, that was an old boatmabs pub. There are only 5 locks from Great Heywood and Penkridge.We like Penkridge, it’s an ideal town to explore on foot.There is a handy fruit and veg there, some great pubs, a Co Op, a couple of banks, and fab market held by the river on Saturdays and Wednesdays. Good mooring spots by bridge 83a, accompanied by some attractive canal side homes. The Cross Keys, an old boater’s pub is excellent and serves a wonderful pint of Bass. We sat in the small unspoilt front bar, undisturbed by any TV, a rare treat these days. The Boat, by bridge 86 is larger,renovated, and serves Ansell’s.Good meals here as well.
A water point is located at Penkridge Wharf, by bridge86. Try the Star, in Market Square. It’s a very attractive pub with a traditional feel inside, serving excellent Bass beers. The Library has internet access. There is a handy shop up by bridge 86 as well, for last minute supplies. It is a contrasting cruise through Otrherton and Rodbaston locks, with the busy m6 thundering beside you on one side, and a peaceful rural outlook on the other. The canal leaves the highway, and once through Boggs, Brick Kiln, and Gaily locks, one is ready for a pause at Gaily Wharf. The Roundhouse Canal Shop is located here, right by Bridge 79 that carries the A5, (Watling Street) over the canal.A unique gift shop housed in the original round toll clerk’s office, it is a well stocked with an array of gifts, canal ware and souvenirs. Plenty of moorings right down to bridge 78. Viking Afloat has one of their narrow boat hire fleets here as well. It is now a winding, lock free cruise past Hatherton Junction, where Hatherton Marina is located. Here, a bit of industry creeps in with a few gravel pits and chemical works briefly appearing. But this is only temporary, as soon the welcoming Fox and Anchor appears, tempting a stop for the evening. The much improved Fox and Anchor has a large outdoor area overlooking the canal. We sampled a fine John Smiths, and Tetley’s there a couple of times. We thought of strolling in to Coven village, but the busy A 449 soon changed our mind. The canal narrows at Pendelford, so be wary. Autherly Junction is where we left the Staffs, to head up the Shroppie. The Staffs continues through the West Midlands avoiding Wolverhampton, while visiting Cookley, Kidderminster and concluding at Stourport on Severn. From the Staff and Worcester, it’s a right hand turn under a fine roving bridge, through a six inch stop lock , and you are on one of the finest canals in the country. The Shropshire Union Canal, (“the Shroppie"), is one of the most popular British Canals. It features high embankments, deep damp cuttings, pleasant villages and towns, and spectacular scenery. Although close to Wolverhampton, Autherley Junction is a pleasant spot, with a well stocked canal shop at the Water Travel base, and water point and sani station a bit further along. But the housing estates and sewerage plant here have always put us off mooring for the night. Wide and straight, the Shropshire Union Canal cuts across the rolling Staffordshire hills. The old Defiant night fighter factory is by bridge 4, just past the Wolverhampton Boat Club. The canal is forever changing as you experience the views from high embankments, then plunge into a deep cutting, damp with thick ferns and vegetation. And, look out for the narrowing of the canal by bridges 4, and just after bridge 8. The first village we come to is Brewood or "Brood" as the locals call it. Here is a delightful village with plenty of old fashioned shops and pleasant locals. Take your time to walk around the streets and get to know Brewood.Try The Bridge hotel, by bridge 14, an old enlarged boater’s pub, serving Burtonwood ales. There is also a super Spa, post office, a great hairdresser, chemist and newsagent. The Swan, in the town centre serves Theakstones XB and Pedigree. The highly recommended Admiral Rodney, well worth the stroll through the town to Dean Street. Friendly staff, lots of pictures of H.M.S. Rodney, and a fine pint of Abbotts Ale. A great pub! Good mooring spots between bridges 13 and 14. Just past Lapley Wood cutting is Wheaton Aston.Here, by bridge 19, is Taylor’s garage, where there is a water point and sani station with fuel also available. More importantly the Hartley Arms is also by Bridge 19, offering food a fine pint of Banks Original, and warm, open fire. Good moorings here between bridges 19 and 20. From Wheaton Aston to Gnosall is a pleasant lock free couple of hours, where you can relax and really enjoy some of the nicest scenery on the Shropshire Union Canal. Gnossal is a lovely village, one of our top spots on the Shropshire Union Canal. Idyllic mooring opposite lovely gardens, between the tunnel and bridge 35. You will find a very friendly butcher in the group of shops on the right over bridge 34, as you head into town. Also in the town is a Bowells of Gnosall (with their own radio station playing), a fish and chip shop, and a bakery.The two pubs on the canal are the Navigation, by bridge 35, and the Boat, at bridge 34. To be fair, we tried both, and suggest you do the same. The Navigation was clean, very friendly new owners and served a good meal and a fine pint of Directors. The Boat, with its much photographed curved front wall, is a smaller, local serving Banks and Marstons. It also has an outside area overlooking the canal. Just through the Shelmore Embankment is Norbury Junction. This is where the old Newport branch headed off, hence the "Junction" in the name. Now, Anglo Welsh hire narrow boats have gone, replaced by the very enthusiastic Norbury Wharf Cruisers. There is a pump out and water point here also. The Junction Inn is opposite, by bridge 38. The in-appropriately named Grubb Street Cutting is a deep cutting with lush thick vegetation and lots of bird lifeThe double arched bridge taking the A519 high above, carries the much photographed telegraph post, still standing as it has done for a hundred or so year. 
Try and moor by bridge 42, where the very famous Anchor in is located. An original boaters pub, the Anchor is still pretty much as it was when it quenched the working boaters thirst.They serve Wadsworth 6X from the cask.It is also a pleasant walk into High Offley, but we never did find the pub there. Further on, the Wharf Tavern, by bridge 55 offers a pleasant canal side beer garden. Good food here apparently, but we didn’t try it. Again, a pleasant stroll up to the village, Cheswardine, but were rewarded with both pubs, (Fox and Hounds and Red Lion) being shut. One of them, (can’t remember which) is being renovated. There is no longer a shop or post office in Cheswardine.That’s progress! Two more cuttings, Woodseaves and Tyrley Cutting lead to Market Drayton Woodseaves is again deep, with the vegetation meeting overhead forming a canopy. There is a 2mph speed limit through this area, to help avoid rock slide, so take it easy!Bridges 57 and 58 tower above in another world. Tyrley Locks are well maintained and in very pleasant surroundings. There are 5 of them, and warm you up for the job ahead. A pleasant surprise at the top of Tyrley, was the Four Alls.Just ten minutes walk from the locks, this welcoming inn was a welcome resting place after the days locks.They serv a fine Woods Shropdhire Lad, and we were so impressed, we stayed for dinner! The Adderley and Audlem flights keep one moving as you enter Cheshire. There are 5 locks at Tyrell and 15, yes 15, at Audlem. All are in good condition and easy to use. We usually do the Audile locks in 2 days, mooring between locks 2 and 3, then down the flight to between locks 11 and 12 the next day. This allows us to catch our breath, and spend more time enjoying AudlemA great little town, Audlem has all you want in a Cheshire village. Winding streets, beautiful church, shops and pubs. The Shroppie Fly, between locks 12 and 13 has the well known narrow boat bow as a bar. They serve good pint of Wadworth 6X , Boddingtons and Flowers. Up the canal, near bridge 78, is the Bridge. This has had a real facelift, and with a new team in charge was looking good. We enjoyed a Marstons out on the rear deck overlooking the canal.Give it a try! The Lord Combermere, in the village, has also been recently done upland was unrecognizable from the last time we were there. Headstones, Timothy Taylors are served and very nice snacks. Mooring can be in demand here. Best spot is below bridge 78. We often moor below lock 15 when coming up to Audlem, and tackle the locks the next day.
The Shropshire Union strikes out straight and true across the Cheshire plain towards Nantwich, with only the Hack green locks causing an interruption. The stone bridges frame each other in the distance, rolling green hills and grazing dairy cattle keeping you company.
Market day is Thursday and Saturday. If you happen to be around there at Eater, there is a great music festival. Most of the hotels have free live music over this long weekend. The nearest pub to the canal is the Oddfellows Arms, a very welcoming pub with low beams and clean bars. They serve a very fine Burtonwood and Top Hat. The new landlord even does a floorshow here on Saturday evenings.One of our very favorites. Don’t miss the Black Lion, with three atmospheric areas, stone floors, low dark timber beams. A great little pub serving local Wheetwoods. Also worth trying here are the Vine, (Hydes Jekyll) and the Crown, (below, left) in the centre of the town, serving Boddintons and Flowers IPA Plenty of shops here as well. Woolies have gone, but a good butcher,excellent baker, newsagent and lots of eateries. It can get very busy here, but normally there are good moorings either side of the aqueduct. If you get a chance, walk up to the little town of Acton. (from bridge 93, or head up under the aqueduct, away from Nantwich)A quaint little village with The Star, a 13th Century pub with mounting steps out the front. They serve Bass; and has recently re-opened after a facelift. From Nantwich the Shropshire Union head past the Hurleston Junction on the left, and ignoring the temptation to head up the Llangollen, pause at Barbridge Junction. The stone bridges frame each other in the distance, rolling green hills and grazing dairy cattle keeping you company.Nantwich is just about the perfect Cheshire town. Packed with Medieval buildings, most dating from the fire of 1583. It is worth taking your time to get to know Nantwich.Head to the tourist information office, grab a map, and just wander the streets. Market day is Thursday and Saturday. If you happen to be around there in April, there is a great music festival. Most of the hotels have free live music over this second April weekend. The nearest pub to the canal is the Oddfellows Arms, a very welcoming pub with low beams and clean bars. They serve a very fine Burtonwood and Top Hat.The new landlord even does a floorshow here on Saturday evenings.One of our very favorites. Don’t miss the Black Lion, with three atmospheric areas, stone floors, low dark timber beams. A great little pub serving local Wheetwoods, one of the oldest on the Four Counties Ring. Also worth trying here are the Vine, (Hydes Jekyll) and the Crown, in the centre of the town, serving Boddintons and Flowers IPA, and a damn nice early morning cappacino! Plenty of shops here as well. Woolies have gone, but a good butcher, newsagent and lots of eateries.It can get very busy here, but normally there are good moorings either side of the aqueduct. If you get a chance, walk up to the little town of Acton. (from bridge 93, or head up under the aqueduct, away from Nantwich) A quaint little village with The Star, a 13th Century pub with mounting steps out the front. They serve Bass; and has recently re-opened after a facelift. From Nantwich the Shropshire Union head past the Hurleston Junction on the left, and ignoring the temptation to head up the Llangollen, we keep on for the remainder of the Four Counties Ring. We usually pause at Barbridge Junction, where the Barbridge Inn always tempts with an excellent Cains Bitter. We have never been game enough to cross the A 51 to the Jolly Tar, but have read and heard good reviews of it. We have never been game enough to cross the A 51 to the Jolly Tar, but have read and heard good reviews of it.
Moorings can be in short supply here at Barbridge, and it pays to arrive early, especially in the peak season. There was once a transshipment shed at Barbridge spanning the canal. You will see where it stood, where the canal narrows just before the right turn into the Middlewich section of the Shropshire Union, the last part of the Four Counties Ring. Once under the arch bridge that greets one on to the Middlewich section, the canal gently winds its way across mainly rural country , passing Venetian marine on the way. High above the meandering River Weaver, the village of Church Minsull can be reached from bridge 14. There are good moorings here as well. There is only 10 miles of the Middlewich section, and once through the Wardle lock, the Ring has been completed. How to book for a Four Counties Cruise? Just click here
Pearsons Canal Companion to the Four Counties Ring is available here....
You can also grab a copy of the Four Counties Ring DVD. Back to Great Canal and River Holidays Home Page.
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This was a real culture shock for us, as on our first ever canal cruise we found ourselves motoring through the industrial history of England operating heavy slow locks that a year previously, we didn’t even know existed!
There are scenic Views right across the valley, where wildlife congregate in the wetlands. 
Nantwich is just about the perfect Cheshire town. Packed with Medieval buildings, most dating from the fire of 1583.It is worth taking your time to get to know Nantwich.Head to the tourist information office , grab a map, and just wander the streets.
