Grand Union, a Grand Canal

A truly Grand Canal featuring wide locks, a variety of scenery, plus classic villages such as Braunston, Stoke Bruerne and Nether Heyford.

It carries the traveler from little Venice to the heart of Birmingham.

Our experience of the Grand Union is limited the section from Braunston down to Leighton Buzzard, with the remainder hopefully to be seen in the not too distant future.

Braunston sits atop the hill surveying the surrounding Northamptonshire countryside.

Here the Grand Union heads up 35ft. through 6 locks to Braunston Tunnel.

The locks are nicely spaced out, and well maintained, so are easy to operate. There is plenty of room in the ponds between for maneuvering around oncoming boats.

Braunston Village is as delightful a village as one will find. Strolling through the main street never ceases to be a pleasant experience.

A fine, typically friendly butcher, Village stores, and one of the best pubs around, The Old Plough. Try enjoying a fine pint of Ansell’s by the open fire, or if the weather is fine, pop out the back to the beer garden.

Up by lock 3 is the Admiral Nelson, also with a large outside seating area.

Down by the canal there is plenty of action. The mariner has a water point, pump out, launderette, and chandlery.

The Boat Shop, up by the bottom lock sells a variety of gifts, books, and canal craft.

Back at the Junction is Midland Chandlers, and by bridge 91 the Mill House, where one can enjoy views overlooking the canal. There is a children’s play area here as well.

Good mooring spots are right along the canal here, from bridge 93, right to just before bridge 2.

Best spot we have found, if you can grab one, is just between the Mariner entrance, and bridge 1. From here you can head up to Braunston across the bridge, walk to the mariner, or stroll to either the Admiral Nelson, or Mill House.

Braunston Tunnel is 2,046 yards long. It is wide enough for two boats to pass. It is a weird feeling watching the lights of another boat slowly drawing closer to you, while trying to keep your own boat clinging to the right hand wall.

Our front light went out half way through this tunnel once, and we had a merry time waving torches around warning other oncoming boats!

It’s a good idea to have all interior lights on, as well as the outside light when going through a tunnel.Just to make things more interesting, Braunston Tunnel has a small kink halfway along, but we couldn’t spot it.

If you have time, moor by bridge 6, just out of the tunnel, and walk in to Welton. There you will find the delightful White Horse, with thatched roof and genial hosts.

We enjoyed a friendly chat and several pints of Black Sheep.Well worth the pleasant stroll.

At Norton Junction the canal branches off to the left, this is the Leicester Section.

We bear south and prepare ourselves for the Buckby Flight, with some pretty heavy locks.

Before tackling the seven locks, pop in to the New Inn. Great atmosphere, (I saw Chelsea kick the winning goal in the F.A.Cup final on their tele once) and great meals as well.

There is a watering point just before the top lock.They serve Frog Island Best, and Old Hookey Ales. The double locks of the Buckby Flight take a while to drop down 63ft and stretch for over a mile and a half.

They are among the heaviest on the canal, and by the time yoo get to the bottom, beleuve me, you know you have been working.

Especially if it is raining.

Take a break for a couple of minutes and have a browse through Anchor Cottage Crafts, it's always fun.

Whilton Chandlery is at the bottom, selling a good range of supplies.

We stopped by bridge 18, and walked to the Heart of the Shires shopping village, but found it dissapointing and expensive.

Good mooring spots here near the underpass and church.Weedon is an interesting village, in two halves. The main street, down from bridge 24, is filled with antique shops and a few pubs.

If you are game to cross the busy A45, try the Heart of England. It is a large, roomy hotel with a very good outside area, serving Pedigree.

Or, if you moor beforeBridge 24, you can walk up from the canal, avoiding the road.

But we found the other Weedon much more appealing. The underpass by the embankment leads to village shops including a chemist and general store, butcher, and a couple of pubs.

Plume of Feathers, a lovely old pub with outside area, was very enjoyable, serving a great pint of Pedigree. Interesting décor and friendly atmosphere.

The Maltsers, tucked away further up the street, was also a homely pub. Try the Black Sheep, the guest ale, and sit in the B.S. corner if you dare!

Not too far down the canal away from the railway, is Stow Hill. Here is Stow Hill Marine, builders of fine looking narrow boats, a few examples of which (William and Anne) are moored there.

There are good mooring spots here, nice and close to the very cozy Narrowboat. An old favorite of ours.

Twice now we have enjoyed the candle lit atmosphere there, with a Bombardier or two.

And a nice rear garden overlooks the canal as well.

Two great pubs, a hairdresser, general store, another friendly butcher, and large village green.

The Old Sun, is a real classic 18th. Century English pub with brassware, old advertising signs, open fires, and beamed bars. Excellent service here, serving Banks, Green King, and Ruddles.The Foresters Arms overlooks the village green, so we took advantage of that and sat outside enjoying an IPA and wine. They do meals as well.

Also by Bridge 32 there is fuel, and pump out available.

It’s a pleasant cruise down to Bugbrooke, wide canal, and interesting scenery.

Bugbrooke is a fair walk from the canal, but again, well worth the effort.

It is an attractive village, with ochre colored houses, a news agency come general store and off license there.Plenty of mooring here near bridge 36.

The Wharf, just opposite, offers Frog Island, and garden area overlooking the canal.

A very friendly atmosphere with canal pictures on the walls, and great meals.

Other pubs here are the Bakers Arms, in the town, and 5 Bells out of town a bit, but a nice friendly hotel. It’s a pleasant cruise down to Bugbrooke, wide canal, and interesting scenery.

Bugbrooke is a fair walk from the canal, but again, well worth the effort.

It is an attractive village, with ochre colored houses, a news agency come general store and an off license there.Plenty of mooring here near bridge 36.

The Wharf, just opposite, offers Frog Island, and garden area overlooking the canal.

A very friendly atmosphere with canal pictures on the walls, and great meals.

Other pubs here are the Bakers Arms, in the town, and 5 Bells out of town a bit, but a nice friendly hotel.

From Bugbrooke it is an easy cruise down to Gayton JunctionIf you are feeling really fit, take a stroll up the hill to Gayton. Moor by bridge 45, cross the bridge, and head over the field where you will be rewarded with a charming, rural village.Fine buildings (Gayton Manor, and Gayton House to name but 2).The Ekyon Arms, in the High Street, is a cheerful pub with lots of naval memorabilia.

Roomy bars with lots of village prints, and well kept Charles Wells made this a very happy experience.

At Gayton Junction, the Northampton arm heads off to the left to join the River Nene. We took one look at the 17 or so locks heading down the canal, and decided to take the bus to Northampton instead!

There is plenty of activity around Gayton Junction, with boats moored along both sides of the canal and Alvechurch Boats hire fleet base just down the Northampton arm.

It is an enjoyable walk around this area, some nice homes and nice boats, with lots if bird life on the canal.

The new mariner is on the right, as the canal heads towards Blisworth. Blisworth Tunnel boats are based here, and this is where our boat Stella was based for 2 happy years.

There is water available, and pump out facilities as well.The town of Blisworth is dominated by the lovely church, and has some attractive sandstone buildings.

In the main street is a general store with off license, newsagent, and supplies.

The Royal oak Hotel, also in the main street, always gave us a warm welcome, with a decent meal, Hook Norton and guest ales.

Moorings are plentiful, best ones being right opposite the boat yard.

The splendid building beside the boatyard was a corn mill, and was used by the Grand Union Carrying Company as a depot. They are now flats.

But Blisworth is most famous for its tunnel. At 3,076 yards long this some tunnel!

As with Braunston Tunnel, two boats can pass in the tunnel, but it is a nervy experience trying to cling to the right, avoiding the occasional drenching from above, as another boat slowly edges towards you.

Luminous arrows in the ceiling indicate when you have passed the half way mark, and it is with relief that you finally exit into the bright light at Stoke Bruerne.

As Pearson’s states, Stoke Bruerne is a canal town without equal.

We wouldn’t argue, and despite all the publicity and tourist attention, maintains its unique quiet personality.

Moor between the tunnel and museum, take your time and enjoy Stoke Bruerne.

The Boat Museum, with its gift shop housed in yet another old corn mill, sits with a group of equally handsome buildings along the towpath.

An interesting selection of craft are tied up there, usually including “Sculptor”

Opposite, the Boat Inn beckons, serving Banks, Marston’s Best, and Pedigree.

There is a handy little shop by the Boat as well.

Also, just past all that activity, is the Navigation in a fine old stone building. From its outside area on the canal, the 2nd bridge arch, from the days when the locks were duplicated.

The original lock, by the Boat, now houses a boat weighing machine.

The two locks at Stoke Bruerne, are followed by the five Stoke locks.

They are wide, double locks and we were able to move through them often using only one gate.

From here, it’s a lock free cruise through the Northamptonshire countryside, to Cosgrove.

The only town to tempt us along here was Yardley Gobion, a lovely village with thatched roofed honey stone brick houses.

Here we stocked up from the Cost Cutter supermarket, and enjoyed an hour in the Coffee Pot pub.

A lovely, country pub with low timbered ceiling and bay windows. They serve London Pride and Tetley’s with a bright cheerful smile.Kingfisher Marine is opposite.

Moor by bridge 60, and head up the track over the bridge.

Careful crossing the A508 though, they are all in a hurry! At Thrupp Wharf is the Navigation Cruising club, right next to the Navigation Hotel.

Here is a truly beatifull old stone pub,where the landlord gives a genuine welcome to the canal taveller.

Why not try an Old Speckled Hen, relaxing in the rear area,with windows overlooking the canal and surrounding countryside.

Superb!

The Taverners boat club is just on the other side of the bridge.

The much photographed Solomon’s Bridge welcomes the traveler to Cosgrove.

There are good mooring spots here out the front of the Barley Mow, and right along the opposite bank.

A row of poplars extend along one bank, while a tunnel runs under the canal from the off side to the Barley Mow.

A water point is located just before the single lock by Cosgrove Mariner.

No shops that we could find, but there is a kiosk by the caravan park.

The old Railway Works is remembered by illustrations on walls.

At New Bradwell, the New Inn looked interesting.

We were pleasantly surprised by Milton Keynes. Lovely wide canal, nice homes, good mooring spots, and a couple of nice pubs.

We moored by Bridge 81 and had a day looking around the shops and enjoying a couple of the pubs. The large shopping centre was superb, and we bought a new video cam-corder there.

There is plenty of open space and it is a nice place to get out and walk.

Good mooring spots we found at bridge 76a, by the Black Horse pub, bridge 81, and by bridge78, for watering and rubbish disposal.

We didn’t enjoy the Pear Tree Bridge Hotel, so moved down to the moorings at Fenny Stratford.

Here we had a lovely pint of Tetley’s on the front lawn of the Red Lion watching other boats through the stop lock.

Meals were not available however.

Once through the stop lock at Fenny Stratford, it is a very picturesque run through to Stoke Hammond.

Lovely countryside and lovely houses all the way to Bridge 106There, a quick walk up the hill brings you to The Dolphin, a friendly local with equally friendly ducks.

There is also a handy Super Store just past the pub with a good range of supplies.

The three locks at Soulbury are in good condition and easy to operate.

The Three Locks Hotel, right on the canal, is a pleasant spot to rest and enjoy the camaraderie of other boaters.

We had received a couple of bad reports about the Three Locks, but we found it bright and friendly. The Directors was in fine form as well.

So onwards to Old Linslade, and for us, one of the highlights of the canal, The Globe Inn.

Nestled by bridge 111, we had long planned a trip to this much photographed old pub.

And it didn’t let us down.

On a magnificent sunny day, it was a treat to relax on the front terrace enjoying great company, great Old Speckled Hen, and helpful bar staff.

One of our “Top Ten.”

We just had to check out Leighton Buzzard, just to see what a town with a name like that was really like.

The moorings there are very pleasant, just before bridge 114.There is a winding hole just past the bridge, where we turned for the return journey.

And the town is a nice surprise with friendly people, a Tescao’s right there by the moorings, and a sprinkling of interesting pubs.

Try the Red Lion with a beer garden and very friendly staff. The Pearsons Guide to the Grand Union is a great way to learn about the canal, and plan your trip.

Pearson's Canal Companion to the Oxford & Grand Union Canals (Pearsons Canal Companions)

The Waterways World Guide to the Grand Union is also available.

Pearson's Canal Companion to the Oxford & Grand Union Canals (Pearsons Canal Companions)

And a very enjoyable DVD on the Grand Union here

Find out more about Warwickshire here

And to see how you can cruise the Grand Union in style, have a look at U.K.Boathire.

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