The Surprising Leicester Section

Other canallers had told us to expect lots of variety on the Leicester Arm; variety of scenery, variety of locks, both wide and narrow.

Jen looks for the same, peace, tranquility, and a good tow path for walking.

And we were not disappointed.

The section starts at the Norton Junction. Then impressive old toll house surveys the busy junction. This beautiful building deserves someone to take better care of it, as it seemed decidedly neglected as we passed.

Just under the attractive wooden bridge 1, is a water point. Further along, on the right, are excellent moorings. Quiet, and only a short distance back to the Grand Union, and over the lock you will fall into the New Inn.

Here is a delightful pub with a ring side seat to those using the Buckby Locks. The landlord is particularly jovial; just ask him about his “takeaway pints!” They serve Hook Norton and Old Hookey. But definitely, stick to the Australian wine

It was at this mooring spot that a boatload of young ladies had trouble with their hire boat. I helped them out, and got their boat started. Naturally, they were all keen to keep me aboard for a couple of days to help them out, but after a chat with Jen, I had to decline the offer.

he canal is a relaxing, pleasing journey through to the Watford Flight.

Here is a group of seven locks, the middle four, staircase locks. Watford locks can appear daunting, with their red and white posts, and side ponds, but never fear, help is at hand!

At the base of the locks, the boas lock handler, (Jen…..everyone knows locks are women’s work!) walks up to the top lock where the lockkeeper is on hand.

There we register with her, and when our turn comes, she guides us through.

So organized, so friendly and pleasant. And, she loves dogs, and canals, and lives on the boat at the top of the lock.

There is a handy water point at the bottom, and top lock, with a rubbish disposal and sani station also by the top lock.

From Watford, it’s a brief cruise to the 1528yard long Crick tunnel. Have your rain coat handy, to avoid the splashes of water as you pass through the tunnel

It is an interesting experience passing through tunnels. I always have difficulty sticking to the right hand side, for some reason I keep drifting to the middle or left.

A light appears, growing closer and closer, until the inside lights of oncoming boat are seen. It always seems there is not enough room to pass, but, at dead slow speed, we make it with inches to spare, and the usual greetings between boats.

Out into the sunshine, (or rain) and Crick.

Crick, home of the ever popular Boat Show, is a really enjoyable town. A pleasant walk up the main street, past the post office, brings us to a well stocked CoOp. More importantly, the Red Lion is a warm, friendly local, serving Old Speckled Hen, which I drank with a photo of Martin Clunes staring at me.

Also in the town is the Wheatsheaf, just across from the CoOp. More basic 8-ball type pub, but again very friendly, and a fine London Pride. Had to visit this one as it was raining outside!

Harder to find, but worth the brief walk to Church Street, is the Royal Oak. Small, intimate with open fire and dog friendly, (a couple of greyhounds the day we were there) made this a real gem for us. They serve Timothy Taylors.

If you get a chance, walk up Crack’s hill, for a panoramic view of the whole area. Very invigorating!

Good moorings to be found after bridge 12, right down to bridge13.It had ceased raining, so enjoyed pre-dinner drinks on the rear deck. From Crick it’s through the rolling Leicestershire hills, twisting and turning in typical contour fashion, to Yelvertoft.

The Leicester arm does its best to avoid all villages, so it’s a pleasant stroll up the hill to get to the village. Once there we were rewarded with a warm red brick village with post office, pub and a butcher. We found time to try out the Knightly Arms, where we had a London Pride, and rather dodgy white wine, (obviously not Australian.) very friendly locals. We spent more time here than we intended, as the crew from Crofton, whom we got to know earlier joined us for a bit of a session.

Back on the canal, sheep, cattle and horses graze along this very attractive part of the canal. Beware! An angry swan tried to remove our rear fender along here.

As we approached bridge 41, we were suddenly tempted by the Wellford Arm, so turned right down a thoroughly enjoyable section of canal.

Rather than sweeping panoramic views, the Welford has canopies of trees, and the easiest lock in history by bridge 3.

The moorings at Welford are opposite the mariner, and are one of our favorite spots. From there it’s an easy stroll into the town, ant to the Wharf Inn, right on the canal.

There are watering points at the wharf, and also at the smaller mariner near the lock.

The Wharf Inn is a lovely inn, serving Pedigree and a decent (Australian) wine.

Killworth Wharf looked a real mess, but we got fuel there anyway.

A magic cruise from here, through Husbands Bosworth Tunnel

As mooring looked difficult at Husbands Bosworth, it looked really shallow by the canal bank, so we moved on to Yelvetoft.

Here we moored just passed bridge 6, to familiarize ourselves with the lock, and have a look at the inclined plane, an, of course, the Foxton Locks Inn.

If you have time, take a walk across the paddocks to the lovelly village of Gumley, a very attractive place.

Foxton Locks is quite a tourist attraction, and often has spectators viewing the coming and going of the boats. Luckily for us, it was a misty week day, and only serious boaters were out the day we descended the locks.

There are 2 sets of 5 staircase locks, and as with Watford Locks, use side ponds. Again, don’t try and work out how it works, a very helpful lockkeeper gives you all the help needed to get through OK

It takes hour or so to descend the locks, with magic views across the countryside as company. Finally, as the last lock is negotiated, it’s a right hand turn passed the Foxton Locks Pub, and water up opposite.

We continued on to Market Harborough rather than on to Leicester, which we will travel another day.

This section is another interesting part of the canal. A swing bridge and lovelly homes lining the canal.

Moorings were a problem at Market Harborough, with no room in the basin (Canaltime boats everywhere, plus private moorings) so we had to head back along the canal and moor well out from the bank.

However, that is the only problem we had with Market Harborough, a very interesting, bustling town.

We enjoyed the book shop, jeweler, (Jen got me a lovelly ring there) Tesco’s and the Union, just down from the basin.

And, there is a GEO Map of the section, in the Grand Union No 4 map.

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