The Trent and Mersey Canal

Our first ever canal cruise was with Anglo Welsh, in the narrow boat Barmouth.Back then, in 1985, Anglo Welsh offered one way trips, so me, knowing nothing about the canal system, thought it would be a breeze to go from Trevor to Great Heywood. In a week!To much!Now I know, some people do the whole four counties ring in a week.

But, I really didn’t know what it was all about, and finished up sailing past places I would loved to have stopped at a while. However, it was a great trip, enjoying it so much we are still cruising today,26 years later..

Part of that first trip was on the Trent and Mersey. This canal runs from the Bridgewater canal, close to the River Mersey to the junction with the River Trent.

It was one of the first canals built, conducted by James Bindley, and opened in 1777.

We joined the canal at Middlewich, an old salt town, with the very welcoming Kings Lock Inn. Good moorings here between the lock, and bridge 166.

And, by Big Lock, is the Big Lock Inn, serving a fine pint of Theakston XB, and Directors. There is a canal side garden, and is boater and family friendly.

We quite liked Middlewich, good moorings, a useful selection of shops, two banks, Somerfield and a chandlery by the boatyard.There is a water point, at the junction, and sani station at the Boatyard.

Wheelock provides good moorings, a newsagent, and one of our favorite pubs on the trip, the Cheshire Cheese, where our kids gave the juke box a fine work out.

A news agency and post office make Wheelock a pleasant spot to re-stock.

If you have time, visit the Commercial Hotel, a classic friendly pub with cosy rooms and Thwaites Bitter.

From Wheelock onwards, the locks start to get serious, with 26 of them over the next 7 miles before to Kidsgrove and the Harecastle Tunnel. This was a real culture shock for us, motoring through the industrial history of England operating heavy slow locks that a year previously, we didn’t even know existed!

But we loved it, and what a great stretch of canal it is!

Most of the locks along here are doubled, and improvement made in the 1830’s by Thomas Telford to speed up traffic.

The locks are spread out, so they are too far for a flight, and too close to take a breather!

The remains of industry, and the potteries, are evident everywhere along this stretch.

Rhode Heath has two pubs, the Broughton arms, (bridge 139) and the Royal Oak, 5 minutes walk over bridge 142.

It’s a rural cruise, with lovely scenery, right down to Lawton Three locks, which is closely followed by Church Locks.

Try the Broughton Arms, at Rhode Heath, and give yourself a well earned break! Marston’s pedigree is very agreeable.

At Red Bull, the Macclesfield canal passes over the top, the precursor to today’s motorway junction, but a lot more attractive.And so we come to Kidsgrove, and the Harecastle Tunnel.

And here the Macclesfield leaves the Trent and Mersey, heading south, to eventually swing north back at Red Bull.

At Kidsgrove, the Tesco’s store can be accessed from bridge 132, but the Kidsgrove Arms has closed. The canal water gets more orange, the closer you get to Harecastle, and mooring by the tunnel, it is a rich maroon colour.Harecastle Tunnel is 2,962 feet long.

Passage through is controlled by very helpfull BW staff.

It is a chilly and spooky experience, at least, being one way working, one does not have to worry about oncoming boats.

It gets very low half way through so be prepared to duck

The tunnel we use today is the second one opened at Harecastle.

The first, was opened in 1777. The current one was opened in 1827, (completed in three years, as opposed to the original one taking eleven years!)to ease congestion caused by the huge increase in traffic. In 1914 the original tunnel was abandoned due to bad subsidence and declining traffic.

After the 40 minute or so journey through the tunnel, it is with some relief to arrive at daylight and more at Longport. Here we visited the Duke of Bridgewater, but have been told recently it is no longer operating as a pub, but the Packhorse is in full swing.

Good moorings are at Longport by the lake, providing a pleasant walk.

At the Festival Park Mariner, Black Prince has a base, and there is a Toby Carvery.

Water, pump out, and rubbish disposal is available at the mariner, without having to negotiate the access bridge.

just ask for Chris!

There is also a water point just down the cut by the exit to the Caldon Canal.

From Stoke, it is a pleasant cruise to Hem Heath. Here, again, there is a Toby Carvery, and a general store. Moorings are along by bridge 106, down to bridge 105.

There are good moorings by bridge 103 to wander into Barlaston, where the Plume of Feathers is a welcome sight.

Complete with its own bowling green, we went there for a pint of Theakstones, enjoyed it so much, we stayed for the special meal deal!

Don’t let the outside fool you, it’s a great pub.

The Wedgewood Visitor Centre can also be reached from bridge 104, head up over the railway line, and follow the signs.

It is a delightful, rural cruise down to Stone, as friendly a canal town as you will find.

It is a bright, bustling town, once the headquarters of the Trent and Mersey Canal Company.

Moorings are plentiful, and the town centre only a few minutes away.

At the top of the town, after the Meaford locks, is a good spot, a brisk walk in to town.

Also, if you can grab one, down the locks before the Star, otherwise, there are plenty past the Star lock.

The Star Inn, by bridge 93, is one of the oldest pubs on the system, and serves a fine Banks, and Pedigree, and bar meals.

There are several levels to this old pub, the service is friendly, and the food good.

The Swann Inn, just in the town over bridge 93, is a great place, serving old Priory and a great range of ales. Music on Thursday nights is fun.

Plenty of banks, Tesco’s, good bakery’s and other pubs make Stone a place to stay a bit longer than you might have planned

Continuing on through the lovely Trent Valley, the canal accompanied by the rail and road towards Great Haywood.

The large Asbury Mariner is on the left, but apart from that ant the railway, only cattle keep you company.

Try and make time to stop at Sandon

Take the walk up to the Dog and Doublet, (careful, no footpath!) which has been completely and tastefully renovated.

The Greene King IPA was in fine form, and the food excellent.Just down the cut is Salt. This is a very attractive village, with moorings after bridge 82.

Again, it’s a walk to the town, but again it is well worth it.The Hollybush Inn is one of the best we have been in.

A beautiful old building, plenty of outside seating, and fine food and service.

And the Pedigree was good as well

10 out of 10.

Weston on Trent has very good moorings after bridge 80. The Woolpack is by the village green in the village. It was packed to the rafters when we were there, as a fair was in full swing on the village green.

The Saracens head, a larger pub with big dining area, and outside seating, is near the canal.

There is also a handy Post Office and store here.

As the canal turns towards Weston, the railway thunders past, emphasizing the pleasure of the quiet 3 mph canal life.

Great Haywood is one of our favorite canal villages.

There are ample moorings along here, especially pleasing after bridge 73 with an outlook over Shugborough Hall. Since we last visited in 2005 the new mariner has opened with even more space available.

Great Heywood is a great little town.

Two pubs, post office, newsagent, and one of the finest pack horse bridges in existence.

Just stroll over the bridge, do a walk around the Shugborough Hall estate, then finish the day with a pint of Tetley’s at the Clifford Arms in there delightful outside area.

Or have a cappuccino at the Lock House, right by Haywood lock, and watch the boats glide past.

If you have time, wander down to little Haywood.

Follow the towpath down to bridge 72, and there is the town. There is a convenience store on the right as you reach the main street.

The first pub you get to is the Lamb and Flag, on the corner, but we suggest turning left and heading straight to the red Lion, a classic English pub

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